In shrines and temples all over Japan you will find papers attached to trees, twigs or special stands - these are called Omikuji. An Omikuji is a piece of paper with statements about your future. It helps people make decisions and/ or determines the outcome of future plans, for example whether you will find a good husband, whether you will give birth to a healthy baby, whether your business will thrive etc. Drawing an omikuji is very easy- in shrines and temples you will find a small box with lots of sticks in it - after paying 100-200Yen (usually 100Yen) you shake it and take out just one stick and check the number - show it to the shrine maiden (miko) who will then hand you a piece of paper. Also, depending on the temple/shrine you might have to take the paper yourself, opening the drawer with the number matching your stick's number. Or you might draw a folded piece of paper from a wooden box. On the omikuji you will find a big Chinese character letter reading either 大吉 (very lucky)・吉 (lucky)・中吉 (could be better)・小吉 (not so lucky)・凶 (bad luck) The ratio of these categories differ from temple to temple and shrine to shrine, but the majority is "lucky" or "very lucky": What is written on the piece of paper depends on the temple/shrine, but roughly there are the following categories:
Wish, person you wait for, things you've lost, travel, trade, scholarship, love, marriage, moving house, childbirth.
Some omikuji do not have anything of the above on them (for example Meiji Jingu Shrine, the omikuji there are poems written by the Meiji Tenno) and some are only coined on one - such as love/ marriage.
In principle you can take any paper home, but in practice if your fortune is good, you have the option to take it home or attach the paper to a tree on the temple/shrine precincts to advert the bad luck.
The shopping street running from the Kaminari-mon to the Hozomon is called
Nakamise-Dori (仲見世通り)
"Naka" means inside, or with the kanji used here (仲) it represents human
relationships.
"Mise" can mean (depending on the characters used) "to show" (見せ) as well as
"shop" (店) - so what possibly originally mean "to show the inside" is now
the synonym for the shopping street inside temples. Once the shops open their doors you can see the all wares inside - without really
having to enter the shop.
Gates like this show the entrance to a temple. Shinto shrines have a different kind of gate, a torii, so it's very easy to tell them apart. This gate is called Kaminari-mon. Kaminari is the Japanese for thunder, and mon just simply means gate.
So it translates as gate of thunder. These two statues on the left and right here are the Gods of Wind and Thunder - they are protecting the temple so that no damages caused by wind and flood or any fires will occur and also to guarantee a prosperous harvest.
On the big lantern in the middle, that's the character for "kaminari" (thunder) - and here on the bottom of the lantern, you can see it says Matsushita - that's the old company name for Panasonic. The gate actually burned down in the middle of the 19th century and a new was build in 1960 - cause the founder of Panasonic donated money. So that's why it says Matsushita up there.
外国人(=非日本語圏)はここで(新大久保周辺在住(?)の韓国人以外)あまり見たことはないけれども、この間、行列の前にかわいいゲイのカップル(アメリカ人かな?)が並んでいて、問題なく注文することができました。 何せよ、ここはメニューが要らなく、ケースで食べ物が見えて、指差すことだけで注文できます。 最初は何品プレートなのかを指でみせればいいだけ。 例のゲイカップルも「全部おいしそうで、決められないね」と迷っていたら、私は(行列で隣にもなっていたから)、Do you need any help?と聞いて、What is this? と春雨サラダを指差されました。
マリーアントワネットの有名な「パンがなければお菓子を食べればいいじゃない」となっています。英語で、「Let them eat cake」、ドイツ語で、「Dann sollen sie doch Kuchen essen」つまり、「ケーキ」となっています。原文を見ますと、「Qu'ils mangent de la brioche」→ブリオッシュですね。
確かに、東京のヒトゴミは恐ろしくて、人ごみの経験がない人は圧倒されやすいです。 まずは、心の準備として、カネッティの「群衆と権力 」を読むのがおすすめ・・・なんて冗談です。(おすすめの本ではあるんですけど♪) Tokyo Crowds might be a bit intimitating and overwhelming. For a start, I recommend you read Canetti's "Crowds and Power" - just kidding. (I do recommend the book though!)
狭い空間に大勢の人間が動いているということで、もちろん、コメントで指摘された通り、他の街にもあります。 ニューヨークのタイムズ広場もロンドンのピカデリーサーカスも混んでいますし、メッカーやルールドも人はたくさんいます。ただし、ウィキペディアのTokyo Travel Guideが言うように、Shibuya
and east Shinjuku at night can make Times Square or
Piccadilly Circus look rural in comparison — it has to be seen to be
believed. (渋谷も東新宿に比べて、タイムズ広場やピカデリーサーカスは田舎にみえる。自分の目で確かめるしかない。)と受け取る方が多いみたい。 広い広場に人間は大勢動いて、それはおそらくそれほど怖くないけれども、狭いところに人が大勢いることが怖いです。狭いところ+大勢の人間ということは、自分に逃げ道がないと感じられる。(まさに、カフカの「小さな寓話」ですね。) その上に言葉が分からないと、さらに怖いでしょう。 建物の 高さは道路の幅の半分を超えると、人間はその道路を「狭い!」と感じているそうですので、東京は狭い!ベルリンは広い!と感じられていることはおかしくありません。
Tokyo is not the only city that has crowded areas, Times Square in New York or Trafalgar Square in London for one are very crowded, but as the Tokyo wiki travel guide says very aptly:
"Shibuya
and east Shinjuku at night can make Times Square or
Piccadilly Circus look rural in comparison — it has to be seen to be
believed.
"
But squares as such have a different dymanic - apparently you feel that a place is cramped when the houses have more than double the width of the street. Since Tokyo city planning is a bit different to what you might be used to, you might feel a tad claustrophobic at first. Hopefully not like the mouse in the Kafka Story "Eine kleine Fabel."
Even if you are in a square, if you don't know what drives the crowds, don't understand their dynamics, you are scared because you don't know what might happen the next second. I can't find any data on this, but I'd say that most of the tourists visiting Tokyo are not from an equally big city... Maybe you think of reports of stampedes in stadiums or train stations when you think of crowds? Or the cliche "people being pushed into trains during Tokyo rush hour?"
The other day I talked to a first-timer to Japan and he made a very clever observation:
"Crowds in Tokyo are easy to navigate. The people are efficient and polite and nobody ever pushes or shoves. Even in the biggest crowd, you'll hardly ever have body contact with other people. You'll hardly ever bump into somebody and rather than being scary, it's a fun experience! The only people in the way are tourists like myself."
Even in these enourmous crowds, people move about efficiently and everybody is well-behaved, you have nothing to fear.
However, if you are still afraid, here's a couple of ideas:
お友達と一緒に行ける時間 がありましたら、一緒に出かけましょう。 日曜日の銀座(中央通は歩行者天国になっている日)、秋葉原(ここも歩行者天国の日)をゆっくり歩いて、 ヒトゴミに慣らせよう。 ヒトギミは群集ではないことを理解させよう。 If you have Japanese friends and they can find some time to show you around, use this time. Take some time to walk crowded areas such as the Sunday-pedestrian areas in Ginza or Akibara and get used to the crowds. Learn to understand that civilised crowds and panicking masses are a quiet different thing.
圧倒感を感じていたら、とりあえず、壁際に持たれて、人の流れを監察しよう。動きの無言の規則が存在して、その人の波に乗れば、まったく怖くありません。 少し落ち着いたら、波で行こう!街の雑踏に身を投じよう!吸い込まれていくのも楽しいですよ。東京のたいていのところは、30分歩いて駅はあります。(特に、人混みの近くは、15分しかないはずです) If you are still overwhelmed, look for a place where you are not in people's way, somewhere close to a wall and watch the crowds flow by - it is not all that scary. Take your time and then go with the flow - let yourself go with the crowds and see where it takes you. From most places in central Tokyo it only takes a 30min walk to the closest train station and it's always worth getting lost!
地図を持っていこう。それともiphoneを! 東京の観光局はA4というとても運びやすいフォーマットの地図(新宿、銀座、池袋、上野等々)を出しています。 ポケットサイズの東京地図は何より、サラリーマンとか、私みたいに街角探検が好きな人にしか向いていないと思います。さらに、観光局のホームページにはイチオシ東京巡りというまち歩き53ルート!もあります。 そういう地図や散歩ルートを手に行動するのは簡単でしょう。 紙版は有楽町の東京国際フォーラム、東京都庁の一階等々においてあります。 Take a map with you, or an iphone. The Tokyo Tourist Office issues little multilingual maps of certain areas of Tokyo with recommended routes and sights.
They are maybe easier to carry around then a Tokyo map (which also might be a bit difficult to handle) The Tokyo Tourist Office also offers a number of walks around Tokyo neighbourhoods in various languages. Check out English here.
どうしても駄目だったら、人が少ない所へ移動しよう! 狭 い道はどうしても変えることは出来ないけれども、大勢の人間は避けることができる。 ※ 裏地を歩く、又は、大きな道路に平行している小さめの道路 ※ 時間帯をみて行動する ※ 週末は池袋、渋谷、新宿、上野を避ける。 ※ 季節によって混む地区も避ける (桜満開の上野) If you are still overwhelmed, here's a couple of other strategies how find places where there's less people. - use the streets and alleys parallel to the big ones - watch the time that you are walking around (avoid the rush on week-days and on Saturday and Sundays avoid areas that are popular on week-ends, such as Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ueno etc) - Avoid places that are seasonally crowded (like Ueno-Park on a Saturday or Sunday during Cherry-Blossom season)
一日の終わりに、ヒトゴミにうんざりして、強い疲れを感じていたら、翌日は人ごみから逃れて、奥多摩、鎌倉、秩父、自然に癒される日帰りツアーをやりましょう。 (ただし、お友達又はホテルで日程を相談しましょう。その日に、大勢の人を引き寄せる大きな祭りが無いように確かめてもらいましょう。) If you are too tired from seeing people, people, people, try and get out for a day. They are a couple of attractions in and around Tokyo, like Oku-tama, Kamakura, Chichibu. Especially if you are a nature-person, you'll love a day trip like this. Check with your friends or your hotel front whether a festival is going on that day. Even the most remote locations are crowded for festivals.